There was a time when...

I could set up my camera at just any of the local beaches and it wasn't a big deal. As time went on, there were more surfers, more photographers and a certain level of hostility about taking surf shots at a beach where the locals have a sense of ownership, which is weird but also a part of human nature. When locals decidetheir semi-secluded spot should stay as secluded as possible it can get uncomfortable. I completely understand that feeling. Surfing's a wonderful sport and there's good reasons for so many people doing it but, that can make the line-ups crowded and unfriendly. 

In part, that's one of the reasons I eased away from doing photos for the magazines and returned to my easel and paints. With my painted images, it doesn't matter where the image started. It only matters how the image makes you feel about surfing and that's what it should be about, the feeling of joy from a few driving turns across a wall of water that results in a knee-buckling cut-back, sending fans of spray through the air.